Link cams… what to think of these creative devices?  Are they the missing link?  The weakest link?  Perhaps they’re an intriguing mixture of both…

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Totem Cams have come up with a truly innovative design that holds much potential to provide excellent holding power in tricky placements while at the same time maintaining a large expansion range and light weight.

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Information we could have used beforehand.

Transportation from Geneva

The absolute best way to get from Geneva to Chamonix is to go to chamexpress.com and spend 25 euro on a van ride directly to where you want to go.  They speak english, and you can schedule a pickup time and place online. More »

Rainbow wall is ridiculously well protected with a ridiculously small rack.  I’ve been on the wall 3 times now, and the rack has shrunk each time.  There is great gear, the crack changes sizes, and there are bolts protecting many of the cruxes.  I would recommend taking the following rack.

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Reviews for packs (and most other stuff) on the internet suck. Some guy gets something for free and talks about how great all the lame features are, and it ends up being totally useless to somebody like me, somebody who knows what they want and how they will use it. So, since nobody else is going to do it I have to do it myself. More »

Every week there’s a new post on rockclimbing.com detailing a bigger, more complicated, heavier, more time consuming, and lamer way to build belay anchors.  For example:  http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2137809;page=unread#unread More »

This is an exact list of the gear that we took on the Complete North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak, which we completed last January in a 29 hour car-to-car push. More »