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Big wall waste bag

Big wall waste bag

5 Comments    
May 22nd, 2012 by Stein

P-tubes are cool and retro, but bulky and quite heavy. The Metolius waste case is hip and effective, but overkill for anything shorter than a serious multi-day big wall. So if you’re like me and want to go light, but possibly stay on the wall a night or two to work some pitches, then this is the perfect deal for you. More »

Evolution Traverse Beta and Gear Lists for Summer and Winter

Evolution Traverse Beta and Gear Lists for Summer and Winter

11 Comments    
April 1st, 2012 by BenH

“Penetrating so many secrets, we cease to believe in the unknowable. But there it sits, nevertheless, calmly licking its chops.” – H.L. Mencken

Indeed, there is nothing you can do to eliminate uncertainty on the Evolution Traverse. It’s too big. More »

Young Guns Part 1: Colin Simon and Kirill Langer climb The Diamond in winter

Young Guns Part 1: Colin Simon and Kirill Langer climb The Diamond in winter

7 Comments    
March 1st, 2012 by Gil

A note from the Management: More »

The Infinite Loop Method by Chris Sheridan

The Infinite Loop Method by Chris Sheridan

3 Comments    
February 22nd, 2012 by Gil

The Two Person Continuous Loop System, aka The Infinite Loop Method More »

Link Cam Review

Link Cam Review

14 Comments    
September 11th, 2011 by Josh

Link cams… what to think of these creative devices?  Are they the missing link?  The weakest link?  Perhaps they’re an intriguing mixture of both…

More »

Totem Cam Review

Totem Cam Review

22 Comments    
September 5th, 2010 by Josh

Totem Cams have come up with a truly innovative design that holds much potential to provide excellent holding power in tricky placements while at the same time maintaining a large expansion range and light weight.

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Chamonix Beta

Chamonix Beta

3 Comments    
January 23rd, 2010 by Nate

Information we could have used beforehand.

Transportation from Geneva

The absolute best way to get from Geneva to Chamonix is to go to chamexpress.com and spend 25 euro on a van ride directly to where you want to go.  They speak english, and you can schedule a pickup time and place online. More »

Rainbow Wall: Gear and Strategies

Rainbow Wall: Gear and Strategies

No Comments    
November 6th, 2009 by Josh

Rainbow wall is ridiculously well protected with a ridiculously small rack.  I’ve been on the wall 3 times now, and the rack has shrunk each time.  There is great gear, the crack changes sizes, and there are bolts protecting many of the cruxes.  I would recommend taking the following rack.

More »

Gear Review: Cilogear 45L Worksack

Gear Review: Cilogear 45L Worksack

8 Comments    
October 21st, 2009 by Nate

Reviews for packs (and most other stuff) on the internet suck. Some guy gets something for free and talks about how great all the lame features are, and it ends up being totally useless to somebody like me, somebody who knows what they want and how they will use it. So, since nobody else is going to do it I have to do it myself. More »

Belay Anchor Setups

Belay Anchor Setups

27 Comments    
May 17th, 2009 by Nate

Every week there’s a new post on rockclimbing.com detailing a bigger, more complicated, heavier, more time consuming, and lamer way to build belay anchors.  For example:  http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2137809;page=unread#unread More »

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