http://pullharder.org/2009/05/17/belay-anchor-setups/ A Culmination of Experiences Earned in the Pursuit of Climbing Sat, 04 Feb 2012 03:10:38 -0700 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4 hourly 1 http://pullharder.org/2009/05/17/belay-anchor-setups/comment-page-1/#comment-2767 Josh Mon, 07 Mar 2011 06:20:34 +0000 http://pullharder.org/?p=588#comment-2767 Sander, we typically clove hitch into the anchor's power point, and then back it up with a knot directly to another piece. That way if the anchor material fails, all is not lost. Also, according to the article Shay cited, if that's what you're referring to, the dyneema still has a strength of ~10kn. Since it's equalizing two pieces, the anchor's strength is still ~20kn. That's enough for my piece of mind. If that kind of force is exerted on my body, I'm dead anyways.... Sander, we typically clove hitch into the anchor’s power point, and then back it up with a knot directly to another piece. That way if the anchor material fails, all is not lost. Also, according to the article Shay cited, if that’s what you’re referring to, the dyneema still has a strength of ~10kn. Since it’s equalizing two pieces, the anchor’s strength is still ~20kn. That’s enough for my piece of mind. If that kind of force is exerted on my body, I’m dead anyways….

]]> http://pullharder.org/2009/05/17/belay-anchor-setups/comment-page-1/#comment-2754 Shay Mon, 21 Feb 2011 18:05:38 +0000 http://pullharder.org/?p=588#comment-2754 Sander, Is this the DMM article you are referring to? http://dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=293&ngroup=1 Sander,
Is this the DMM article you are referring to?
http://dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=293&ngroup=1

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