Michael Strassman Memorial Route (Superdike)
The Michael Strassman Memorial Route climbs the South Face of Lone Pine Peak following an impressive right leaning dike, dubbed the Super Dike. This prominent feature rips across the otherwise blank wall for nearly 500 feet, offering up some incredible climbing along the way. The first ascent was accomplished on September 30, 2008 by Scotty Nelson, Charles Ince and Nate Ricklin.
Get the topo here.
For more information including approach beta, see the summitpost page.
Route Description
• P1 (5.7R): Climb the dike up the pedestal angling up and right toward a bush then follow the ramp up and left. At the top of the pedestal (sling horn for pro) traverse left into a left-facing corner that angles up and right. From here traverse right into a smaller ramp and head out across the face to a discontinuous dike that leads to a mantle then a roof and a belay. 50M.
• P2 (5.10a): Climb up and right passing 4 bolts then get into the right facing corner. Climb this until it ends and move up and left passing a bolt then angling right toward a prominent ledge. 40M.
• P3 (5.10c): Amazing climbing follows the Super Dike. 55M.
• P4 (5.10c): Follow the Super Dike past a bush while doing some killer climbing along the way. 50M.
• P5 (5.10c): Continue on the Super Dike past 4 bolts into the ”Sea of Knobs” where the climbing becomes very easy. Look for the a 3 bolt anchor. This is where MSMR crosses Land of Little Rain (40M).
• P6 (5.4 X): AMAZING climbing (no protection) leads up and right through the ”Sea of Knobs” to a prominent bush and a 2 bolt rap station (35M).
If you are going to the summit, follow the Summer Ridge up and left.
Alternatively, from the top of P5 follow Land of Little Rain by going straight up and slightly left to a broken roof where a large crack will take you almost to the Summer Ridge (60M).
Follow the ridge and jump on the Direct South Face Route (Beckey Route)
to go to the summit. Otherwise, 2 ropes (60M) allow you to rap the MSMR
from the bush back down to the notch.
Sick Dike Climbing Photos:
Charles cruising up the unbelievably continuous P4
Scotty making the first redpoint of P5
Nate getting into the runout on P1
Scotty cruises P4
Charles making the first funky moves on P5
Dike pinching and slabbing, fuck yeah!
Posted in Climbing, Featured, First Ascents, High Sierra | 6 Comments
Can’t wait to give ‘er a go in spring ‘09! Will let you know when we’re back (Chief, Brutus and me)
Hi there,
I am Michael Strassman’s sister, Debra. I was going through some old emails and found the link to this. We thank you again for naming this route for my brother.
Happy Climbing,
Debra
I want to go climb this route again. It is making me drool on to my mousepad when I see the photos. Here is the secret beta for climbing the route: slap the dike, fondle it, drive your knee into, try to stay on with no hands, palm the big bulges and crimp the small sensitive features, if it gets elusive just follow along by tip toe. When your off the dike kindly untie the thing and let someone else have a go.
Josh and Sheila did it a few weeks ago for the 2nd ascent (I assume)… Josh told me it was one of the best routes he’d done in the Sierras.
I climbed it on my trip to the Sierra’s…got to lead every pitch…definitely had to PULL for the onsight. I would rate it solid 5.11-
did you put those bolts in with a hand hammer drill? or a power drill?
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