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Exploring the Pipeline (another FA on Carillon)

August 6th, 2008 by Shay

The pipeline is perhaps the most imposing roof in the Eastern Sierras.  Flawless granite extending itself from the wall more than 30 feet.  Andre and I spotted this obvious feature while putting up Sweet Carillon.  This weekend we went up to explore it.

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The climbing leading up to the money pitch was a bit more flared than that found on SC but still offered good protection and provided an obvious line of ascent.   Upon reaching the roof, you traverse right underneath it jamming and underclinging all while smearing your feet on the granite slab below.   Unfortunately we ended up having to resort to aid as some crystals and loose flakes littered the slab below and needed to be cleaned off.  With a little work the roof will most likely see a free ascent at ~5.11 or ~5.11+.

 

Summary:

Pipeline III 5.10 A1
FA: Andre Kiryanov  and Shay Har-Noy
Start directly below the wave-like roof following the crack system directly below it with an occasional crack switch.  Pull the roof on the right side and then head up easy face climbing to a stance.  3-4 pitches of easy climbing up and left leads you to the summit ridge. 

 

 

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Posted in Climbing, Featured, First Ascents, High Sierra | 5 Comments

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5 Responses

  1. Reply
    Dan says:
    August 6, 2008 at 1:39 pm

    Beautiful line, cheers!
    Every week a new FA or 2. Kind of starting to bore me…

  2. Reply
    Scotty says:
    August 10, 2008 at 9:24 pm

    that’s the way the granite crumbles….Nice job!

  3. Reply
    Ian says:
    August 11, 2008 at 10:44 am

    That’s a sick OW! I suggest climbing it Belly Full of Bad Berries style.

  4. Reply
    Shay says:
    August 11, 2008 at 10:48 am

    Its actually not an OW, its starts off with handjams and then gets into this crazy layback with high smearing of the feet. Gear placements were (in order): #4, #2, #2, #1, #.75, #2 TCU, #3

  5. Reply
    Charles says:
    August 11, 2008 at 12:32 pm

    Way to get tubed bra!

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