Comments on: FA: “Sweet Carillon” IV 5.10

By: Skully

Skully — Mon, 23 Feb 2009 03:07:09 +0000

Sweet stuff.

By: Shay

Shay — Tue, 29 Jul 2008 20:51:05 +0000

No worries Randy. Topo is available under where it says Route in the TR or here:
http://pullharder.org/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/sweetcarillontopo1.pdf

By: Randy

Randy — Tue, 29 Jul 2008 20:26:50 +0000

Great Route Guys!!! Very generous of you to share.

Hope you dont mind a dumb question…where do I find the pdf? Thanks

By: BigMongo

BigMongo — Mon, 28 Jul 2008 22:14:20 +0000

Thanks for the response Shay. Sounds like a reasonable compromise. Good new route – nice one!!

By: Nate

Nate — Mon, 28 Jul 2008 19:22:12 +0000

I would also like to add, that it is Shay’s and Andre’s route, and they felt like adding a bolt, and they can do whatever they want, and you can go do your own route in whatever style you want.

By: Shay

Shay — Mon, 28 Jul 2008 19:10:16 +0000

Although the 5th pitch ends on a giant ledge. The only pro there is the offwidth. We figured that if you brought a #5 cam you could build a one-point anchor but then you would have to take it out in order to lead the next pitch. Dragging 2 #5 cams for an alpine climb would be a total suck.
With the bolt you can either bring a #5 and be well protected with bomber anchors the whole way or leave the #5 at home and run it out a bit on the OWs and still have good belays.

Note: the rope drag makes it really difficult link pitches 5 & 6.

By: Moshe

Moshe — Mon, 28 Jul 2008 18:32:42 +0000

amazing pics…good job.

By: BigMongo

BigMongo — Sat, 26 Jul 2008 20:48:22 +0000

Nice job – why add a bolt belay though.

By: Buster

Buster — Fri, 25 Jul 2008 23:08:09 +0000

Looks like you guys may of put up a classic line, freakin’ awesome!

By: Dima

Dima — Thu, 24 Jul 2008 15:09:33 +0000

Bery, bery nice !

By: Shay

Shay — Thu, 24 Jul 2008 03:47:34 +0000

Its on the East Face of Carillon. Approach by taking the N. Fork trail from Whitney Portal to Lower Boyscout Lake. At LBSL turn right and head up hill on the faint switchbacks. Mt. Carillon will appear on your left once you are in the beautiful green section. The East face can be identified by the big orange dike slicing the headwall.

By: Victor Lawson

Victor Lawson — Thu, 24 Jul 2008 02:53:19 +0000

What side of Carillon is yer route on? How did you approach?

By: Gil

Gil — Thu, 24 Jul 2008 02:38:11 +0000

wawaweewa! awesome guys, you make me proud to be part of PullHarder. I am reconing some PullHarder CO FA’s, but rock like that gives me a huge “Sierrection”

By: Jonas

Jonas — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 23:48:35 +0000

That dihedral looks rad! Well done fellas.

By: Andre

Andre — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 19:23:42 +0000

Onsight attempts are cool, but this time I also had my first time experience of a semi-critical onsight descent
Thanks for leaving the lights on, Scotty and Lin!

By: Nate

Nate — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:53:48 +0000

Sick line guys! I can’t believe you assholes found a yosemite-style crack up there, bastards. The “Greek Finger” is flipping you off from the Cleaver.

By: Kostas

Kostas — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:15:07 +0000

Those cracks look awesome. You lucky bastards! Good job…

By: Lin

Lin — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 17:43:57 +0000

nice route name!

By: alex

alex — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 17:40:50 +0000

sweet! Carillon