Comments on: New Route on The Cleaver: “Cleavage Dreamer” III 5.10 A1 http://pullharder.org/2008/07/06/new-route-on-the-cleaver-cleavage-dreamer-iii-510-a1/ A Culmination of Experiences Earned in the Pursuit of Climbing Thu, 11 Mar 2010 15:44:39 -0700 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4 hourly 1 By: Nate http://pullharder.org/2008/07/06/new-route-on-the-cleaver-cleavage-dreamer-iii-510-a1/comment-page-1/#comment-701 Nate Fri, 25 Jul 2008 18:56:27 +0000 http://pullharder.org/?p=328#comment-701 Scotty and Lin just freed this last weekend... awesome guys! They got the hex out so now you probably need two #3 camalots. Scotty and Lin just freed this last weekend… awesome guys! They got the hex out so now you probably need two #3 camalots.

]]> By: Jon http://pullharder.org/2008/07/06/new-route-on-the-cleaver-cleavage-dreamer-iii-510-a1/comment-page-1/#comment-662 Jon Tue, 15 Jul 2008 06:45:51 +0000 http://pullharder.org/?p=328#comment-662 Cool. So it's like V1, right? 5.10 is around V1. Why don't you just go to Santee to climb V1's instead of wasting time and gas going to the mountains? ;> Cool. So it’s like V1, right? 5.10 is around V1. Why don’t you just go to Santee to climb V1’s instead of wasting time and gas going to the mountains?

;>

]]> By: |Charles http://pullharder.org/2008/07/06/new-route-on-the-cleaver-cleavage-dreamer-iii-510-a1/comment-page-1/#comment-653 |Charles Wed, 09 Jul 2008 01:20:52 +0000 http://pullharder.org/?p=328#comment-653 Dude you guys fuckin rule! Can't wait to hear about it when I get back! Dude you guys fuckin rule! Can’t wait to hear about it when I get back!

]]> By: Daveus http://pullharder.org/2008/07/06/new-route-on-the-cleaver-cleavage-dreamer-iii-510-a1/comment-page-1/#comment-652 Daveus Tue, 08 Jul 2008 22:08:45 +0000 http://pullharder.org/?p=328#comment-652 Damn, Nate -- glad to see you're kicking ass outside of MD! Keep it up. Damn, Nate — glad to see you’re kicking ass outside of MD! Keep it up.

]]> By: Nate http://pullharder.org/2008/07/06/new-route-on-the-cleaver-cleavage-dreamer-iii-510-a1/comment-page-1/#comment-651 Nate Tue, 08 Jul 2008 20:05:41 +0000 http://pullharder.org/?p=328#comment-651 Yes indeedy... The money route will go straight up the center of the face to the upper central dihedral leading right to the summit... Yes indeedy… The money route will go straight up the center of the face to the upper central dihedral leading right to the summit…

]]> By: Scotty http://pullharder.org/2008/07/06/new-route-on-the-cleaver-cleavage-dreamer-iii-510-a1/comment-page-1/#comment-648 Scotty Tue, 08 Jul 2008 16:29:00 +0000 http://pullharder.org/?p=328#comment-648 Looks like a lot of room for more routes on that wall.... Looks like a lot of room for more routes on that wall….

]]> By: Tony http://pullharder.org/2008/07/06/new-route-on-the-cleaver-cleavage-dreamer-iii-510-a1/comment-page-1/#comment-646 Tony Tue, 08 Jul 2008 01:59:19 +0000 http://pullharder.org/?p=328#comment-646 Bad ass! Bad ass!

]]> By: Shay http://pullharder.org/2008/07/06/new-route-on-the-cleaver-cleavage-dreamer-iii-510-a1/comment-page-1/#comment-645 Shay Mon, 07 Jul 2008 17:32:59 +0000 http://pullharder.org/?p=328#comment-645 Way to get er done gentleman. Congratulations on joining PhD2008! Way to get er done gentleman. Congratulations on joining PhD2008!

]]> By: Rachel http://pullharder.org/2008/07/06/new-route-on-the-cleaver-cleavage-dreamer-iii-510-a1/comment-page-1/#comment-641 Rachel Sun, 06 Jul 2008 21:30:53 +0000 http://pullharder.org/?p=328#comment-641 I have lots of things to say about bear-hugging a Greek finger I have lots of things to say about bear-hugging a Greek finger

]]> By: Nate http://pullharder.org/2008/07/06/new-route-on-the-cleaver-cleavage-dreamer-iii-510-a1/comment-page-1/#comment-640 Nate Sun, 06 Jul 2008 18:55:10 +0000 http://pullharder.org/?p=328#comment-640 Thanks! Here's the standard rack: Nuts, double TCU's and camalots to #2 and a single #3. We had a larger hex but it is now conveniently fixed in the only spot we placed it. For the start of the dihedral, maybe some tiny nuts to get some psychological pro or a bolt kit for one bolt. Kostas just ran it out and by the time he found some pro was too pumped/gripped to keep going. Scotty you'd like that pitch. A not-quite-vertical corner with a shallow offwidth groove in the back. Body english style. Thanks!

Here’s the standard rack:
Nuts, double TCU’s and camalots to #2 and a single #3. We had a larger hex but it is now conveniently fixed in the only spot we placed it.

For the start of the dihedral, maybe some tiny nuts to get some psychological pro or a bolt kit for one bolt. Kostas just ran it out and by the time he found some pro was too pumped/gripped to keep going.

Scotty you’d like that pitch. A not-quite-vertical corner with a shallow offwidth groove in the back. Body english style.

]]> By: Scotty http://pullharder.org/2008/07/06/new-route-on-the-cleaver-cleavage-dreamer-iii-510-a1/comment-page-1/#comment-639 Scotty Sun, 06 Jul 2008 18:07:05 +0000 http://pullharder.org/?p=328#comment-639 Congratulations! What kind of rack would you suggest for a FFA? Congratulations! What kind of rack would you suggest for a FFA?

]]> By: Gil http://pullharder.org/2008/07/06/new-route-on-the-cleaver-cleavage-dreamer-iii-510-a1/comment-page-1/#comment-638 Gil Sun, 06 Jul 2008 16:55:17 +0000 http://pullharder.org/?p=328#comment-638 Great looking climb! That bolt was undoubtedly put there by The Ghost Jesus (TGJ). Great looking climb! That bolt was undoubtedly put there by The Ghost Jesus (TGJ).

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