Uh-oh, I pulled too hard!
In this season of hard training and pushing your limits, I figured I would post up a reminder that you need to listen to your body. Very carefully.
I’ll relate the whole story so as not to drop any details.
I’ve been training to send my project bouldering problem in Bishop, a burly v7/8 (called Pow Pow) which would be the first at the grade for me. I’ve been working it on occasion for years; it requires uber-body tension and cranking campus-like moves off of shitty open-handed crimps. I’ve gotten the whole thing in two sections, so I was planning to send it this spring break (~1.5 months from now). All I really need to send is a good season of focused training.
So my training and ability level has been steadily improving this winter; a couple weeks ago, I began doing open-handed (3-finger) campus board training. I alternate doing static 3-finger hangs from the 3/4 inch rungs, then doing long moves on the 1″ rungs (complex training). I’ve done this twice over the past 2 weeks–so I definitely have allowed time to rest. Yesterday, after two days of recovery, I decided the 3/4″ rungs were too easy (was hanging ~10 seconds) so I decided to try the newly installed (courtesy of Strong Dan) 1/2″ rungs. After 2 sets, in which I was *almost* able to stick a fully weighted hang (3 fingers, open handed) I decided to give it a more focused attempt. My ring finger on my right hand gave out with a strange sound and sensation, something new to me. It didn’t hurt, so I figured it wasn’t serious. So I decided to try a set on the 3/4″ rungs instead. Heh…wow what an idiot…so the left ring finger did the exact same thing. This really freaked me out. I was about to leave, but thought to do some easy traversing to wrap up the evening (still not taking in the reality of what I’d done to myself). Traversing wasn’t too bad, and my fingers didn’t hurt that much.
Now it is Sunday. Tying my shoes is a little difficult; there is absolutely no way I can climb if I use my ring fingers at all. Even a minor attempt to generate force in an open-handed position causes terrible pain, although I can still type without a problem right now. So I’m taking at least a couple weeks off from any grip-related activities that are avoidable.
On that note, anyone up for some running? 
Pull Hard (but not too hard…)
Posted in Bullshit | 8 Comments
Share
Dude! That sucks really bad! Do you know what you ended up doing to your fingers? How are they doing now?
most likely first knuckle pulley tear based on the pain location (base of finger), but not sure. I’m not going to the doctor, since real men can self-diagnose. It’s feeling better but hurts bad if I pull in an open hand (pocket) position. Going to rehab myself starting next week with light grip exercises–heavy rolls with only a 45lb barbell. When healthy I can do 200 lbs.
Oh yeah, pain is improving from sunday, gradually.
Sounds like A2 pulley. NEVER keep climbing after a finger “fails” like that. Pulley injuries typically don’t hurt at all right after, but the next day you’re fucked. Especially if you keep climbing on it! Hope you heal up quick John. Nath and I have been climbing like mad. She sent her first 5.12a (7a+) which was pretty cool, but then kept trying to redpoint a crimpy 11d over and over and over til I told her to stop. Sure enough, her fingers hurt the next day. She’s climbing again already and redpointed 11b today.
Be Careful!!!
1 week post-injury–some soreness remains, but feel like I can safely begin rehab. No pain if I pull with the injured fingers (whereas a few days ago this would cause sharp pain).
Josh, I read your posts about your trip, sounds like a lot of fun, except for the being sick part. Stay healthy man! Don’t push it if you aren’t feeling right (learn from me haha).
Hey, wasn’t that the day that I was telling you to stop climbing immediately if you felt even the slightest twinge while campusing? Hahaha — how ironic.
Here is some advice that may help with healing http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/search/label/videocasts
Incidentally, I’ve also been recovering from a (mild) finger injury — VH has too many boulder problems that kill fingers these days.
I just realized that my previous comment may not be appropriate for this site (i.e. too compassionate). Here is a corrected version:
Jon, you popped a finger because you were not pulling hard enough on the other fingers. Pull harder next time.
If the exercise is done correctly, all of your fingers should pop at the same time when you reach the threshold load — not just one or two.
Quit whining and see this for what it is: an opportunity to train your other fingers on the campus board.
hahahaha
Yeah, ironically you had been telling me to be careful of my tendons, less than 5 mins before the injury…
So I’ve been campusing on my uninjured fingers since then (per your advice above) and am having great results. I think that my most recent session finally rid me of those pesky pulleys that were causing so much pain. Having “bow-strung” tendons is enabling me to pull much harder than before. I highly recommend it.
Leave a Reply