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Rediscovering Mission Gorge

November 29th, 2007 by Gil

Mission Gorge will always occupy a special place in my heart. It was there that I first climbed outdoors, first lead a trad climb with the 5 pieces of gear I owned at the time and subsequently fell and ripped out my first piece and decked. It was at the top of Mission Gorge that I first truly realized how beautiful San Diego really is. Mission Gorge is that close by spot, where you can take girls climbing to show them what a man you are by climbing some 5.7 that you’ve done a hundred times, but claim to have never done. You can then come back with that same girl and run naked down the trails that line the top of the crag, wild sage tickling your bare thighs, Southern California sun bathing your private parts…sorry, I digress.

As I started to climb elsewhere around California, Mission Gorge started to seem like a real shithole. After all its dusty, the rock is slick, rattlesnakes are everywhere, and most of the climbs are very short. So when Albert suggested that we go there yesterday, I was hesitant despite his claims of great crack. I probably would not have gone, but with daylight in short supply and after being in New York City for 2 weeks, any outdoor climbing seemed like heaven.

I lead the first climb and soon remembered why I had not chosen to climb at the gorge in almost a year…polished, slippery rock. But after I topped out I said to myself, “Self, polished slippery rock will only make frictiony rock seem better by comparison. Sure its scary and offers poor footing, but punishment equals glory.”

Rediscovering Mission Gorge was like going home to New York and finding an old t-shirt that I never liked buried in my closet and realizing when I put it on that despite how ugly it is and how bad it smells of mothballs, the rippling muscles I have gained from pulling ridiculously hard now make the shirt fit me perfectly (and make me look like a Greek god). I can now view Mission Gorge as a place to hone my trad skills rather than going there to do easy sport climbs with a certain ex-girlfriend who held me back from climbing harder stuff because she couldn’t be trusted to catch me on a lead fall and convinced me to take nude pictures with her instead, which she slyly deleted from my computer and then absconded with the only copies after we broke up so she can show her friends one day when I decide to run for public office…sorry, I digress. My point is that I had a great time climbing at The Gorge with Albert and Brent and can’t wait for the days to get longer so that I can climb there in the afternoon and get back to the beach in time to surf at sunset.

Here is the link to the photos: http://mountainroad.smugmug.com/gallery/3909742#226866949

Posted in Bullshit, Climbing, Socal | 6 Comments

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6 Responses

  1. Reply
    Shay says:
    November 29, 2007 at 3:12 pm

    Dude. your pics make Mission Gorge look awesome. Whats the name of the climb that albert is on under the roof?

  2. Reply
    Gil says:
    November 29, 2007 at 3:29 pm

    its called The Nutcracker (5.9 ***), but we all agreed its more like 5.10+ It follows a flaring hand crack in a right facing dihedral up to that roof and then traverses right and shares the ending to Galwahs Crack, which is a tight full body chimney. It might be the longest trad route at the gorge. awesome route!

  3. Reply
    Albert says:
    November 30, 2007 at 10:14 am

    mission gorge is our backyard crag! what an amazing place… its also the rock on which i meet my all time bffa, jacqua felderface

  4. Reply
    Gil says:
    November 30, 2007 at 3:30 pm

    Albert has picked up many dudes at the Gorge. They flock to his caramel colored mongolian skintone

  5. Reply
    Scotty says:
    December 11, 2007 at 8:47 pm

    One I never did figure out was General Dynamics….JI think it was also rated 5.10+….MFA!

  6. Reply
    Scott says:
    January 28, 2008 at 5:04 am

    My first ever lead was Galwas crack using only Hexentrics… didn’t have a job to buy cams yet. I got locked in that place after sunset more than once. That gorge is a beautiful oasis.

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